Tip of the Month

Text by Fulvio Di Rosa

Each month we highlight a place of interest around the globe that we consider as unique as your Home in Tuscany. The tips are selected as they either show respect for the environment, nature and architectural beauty or are deeply indigenous to their individual origin.

In these uncertain times and characterised by a general criticism on the sustainability of many countries economies and growth, this month, we would like to highlight and draw your attention to a very obvious but important statement: Countries economies have, more often than not, very little to do with their people's willingness, ability and skills to work and create richness. Unfortunately, and all too often, what we read in the media distorts our feelings and our judgement of a country and on occasion, we can consider that country a less desirable place to visit.

A perfect example of the above is Greece: a country, now facing real economic issues, but despite the negative images we conjure up about it, the country and islands are full of cultural, historical and environmental wonders and a healthy local cuisine continues to attract visitors from all over the world.

This month we would like to give you some good reasons to return to or discover for the first time the land of Homer and Ulysses.

Greece's archipelagos are numerous and scattered around the South-East Mediterranean Sea; this time we would like to concentrate on a small, not very well known, but still incredibly beautiful and welcoming island: Leros, in the Dodecannesian archipelagos, literally just a few miles away from Turkey's coast.

Its nature is wild, its sea has all the nuances of blue/green/turquoise, its historical remains are impressive: the Byzantine Castle , overlooking the town of Platanos, resisted for 30 years to the attacks of the Turks and when you look at it you can see why! Amongst its huge walls, the little church of Our Lady of the Castle, represents one beautiful example of Orthodox religion architecture; some of the icons there, would deserve an honour place in any important museum. If you're lucky, you might be there when the old women from around the island carry fresh bread loafs to offer to the Madonna.

The beaches are endless and it is not unusual to find yourself sunbathing alone surrounded only by the music of the constant wind and waves on the seashore.

And a fantastic tip for your stay: a very small hotel restored and run with incredible passion, taste and skill by a Greek lady who lived in Paris for many years. The original early XX Century mansion has been turned by Stella Sandaltzpoulou into the Hotel des Colours.

Every room has a colour-theme (impossible not to see the similarities with our Vagli), with huge windows open to the breeze and breath-taking views.

In the morning you'll be pampered by Stella's breakfasts; a tempting mixture of French and Greek cuisine, that you can enjoy seated under the natural shade of her small trees or in the shadow of some colourfully floating sails… and in the evening, before heading out for dinner we suggest first you relax in Stella's garden, sipping the typical Ouzo, which you will easily become addicted to…

For dinner you'll find so many Tabernas, most of them run by the fisherman who actually goes out every day to catch whatever the sea will have to offer.
One tip for all: Taberna Milos , which takes its name from the old wind mill laying in the sea, a few metres away from your table.

Their scorpio (redfish) is simply to die for!
The Greeks are second to none when it comes to cooked - grilled fish. While you're waiting for the fish that you've personally chosen to be cooked, you have to try one of the many appetizers, all coming from the Greek tradition: octopus salad, taramosalad (fish-eggs and potatos), tzatziki (cucumber, garlic and yogurt), salted mackerel, dolmadas (stuffed vine leaves)… just to mention a few of them.

Most of the time, you'll be served literally a few metres from the seashore, so that the music of the sea will accompany you till the end of the evening.

And if you chose to spend a day or two in Rhodes on your way to Leros, you mustn't miss the Cyclopean walls surrounding the medieval town: simply unbelievable. Their structure complexity and size is breathtaking and you will hardly recall having seen something similar in your life.

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When walking around the tower at the entrance of the old port, try to picture that entrance being super imposed by the gigantic figure of the Colossus of Rhodes.


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